I Spent A Week At Tales Of The Cocktail As A Sober Girl
The modern sobriety movement is the only thing that's happening right now and I have proof.
Once considered a burgeoning market, a space that industry pros would do well to keep in their periphery, the non-alc sector is officially mainstream and officially on the tongue of anyone who’s anyone in the beverage world.
I spent all of last week in New Orleans, a city famous for its boozy slushes and walking libations, attending Tales of the Cocktail. Widely known as the biggest bartender convention in the country, Tales was crawling with bar owners and cocktail enthusiasts from all over the world, everyone buzzing in one way or another over the hottest new trends and products. Going into the week I wasn’t entirely sure what to expect. Sure, I was going in with a crew of non-drinkers, covering only the alcohol free offerings, but I wondered if that old, crusty acquaintance of mine, booze, would be belligerently sucking out all of the air in the rooms of The Ritz Carlton. What I experienced was an unexpected revelation, the non-alc party is big and it’s just getting started. What was, by definition, a “booze fest,” actually felt more like a celebration of the NA beverage market.
I checked into the convention on Monday morning and picked up my media credentials since I was attending as a “Sobriety Influencer,” something no one who hasn’t seen me in more than four years would ever believe. It was a surreal moment, claiming my place at this event as a sober girl, knowing damn well that 2019 Kristen would have been excited to be there for very different reasons. I retrieved my wristband and badge and made my way to the exhibit halls where I met up with the film crew that would be documenting this whole experience. While it’s not quite time to share more details about this particular project, it’s important to note as you read on about my time at Tales that we got the whole damn thing on camera. Proof of the no proof wave.
The first stop of the day was the Lyre’s tasting room, beautifully appointed shelves and tables, appropriately loud music, and a line of folks out the door to get a taste of their menu. Guest bartender, Lauren O’Brien of Netflix’s Drink Masters, was mixing up some tasty treats like the “6AM Yoga,” a refreshing concoction of fresh cucumber and mint with guava and honeydew. “I Get My Peaches Down in Nola,” another crowd favorite, combined a hibiscus tea blend with peach, strawberry and honey. Each cocktail was made using one or more of Lyre’s zero-proof spirits and no detail was missed on garnish or presentation. Later that afternoon I got to catch up with Lauren at her own pop up, “Bodega Culture,” inspired by the lifeblood of NYC, the corner stores where fresh empanadas and brown bagged bottles reign supreme, and chat about her experiences with sobriety, motherhood, TV stardom, and entrepreneurship. I’m not sure when this woman sleeps! She’s got so many rad things cooking right now and it was so cool to get a bit of her time in the middle of the madness.
We hopped back down to The Ritz to see Andrew Solis from Cut Above zero proof spirits and watched the bartenders shake up some killer NA cocktails for us. My favorite was their mezcal option, with just the right amount of smoke and no unnecessary sweetness. I got to chat with Andrew and his lovely wife, Blanca, about all that is happening in their world and both expressed how different this year at Tales felt for non-alc from years past. The line to reach the Cut Above bar was probably forty or fifty deep by the time we left. What struck me most was the mix of people waiting to try Andrew’s drinks. I met some sober people, sober-curious people, and people who just wanted to know what all the hype was about. This is also where I met Laura Silverman and Shell Righini of @wearesober and @werecoverloudly respectively, and had one of those don’t I know you moments. I had sooo many of those moments over the course of the week and it was so special to meet all of these beautiful people in real life whose work has inspired me over the last few years.
Monday also found us at the Ritual pool party at The Chloe, a boutique hotel in the New Orleans Garden District. The cool factor of the hotel combined with the crowd was electric, everyone was vibing to the DJ, sipping on Ritual zero proof cocktails and packing on the SPF which was included with the welcome swag. I didn’t end up switching into my bikini but I did get my hands on a frozen espresso NA treat that rocked my socks off. I finally got to meet Paige Danoff of @soberandfunky who made the trip up from Texas and we talked over the pool splashing and house music about all things sobriety and the groovy sober events she’s curated in Austin.
A highlight for me was sitting down with Mickey Bakst, co-founder and executive director of Ben’s Friends, a sobriety and recovery support group specifically for those in the hospitality industry. I listened to Mickey’s seminar on creating more wellness in the workplace and found myself tearing up a few times as he described his own journey to sobriety back in 1982 and what inspired Ben’s Friends decades later. As a freelance creative I’ve found myself in and out of the restaurant and bar world many times over the last two decades and it’s true that it’s a uniquely difficult environment for anyone struggling with substances. I’m endlessly inspired by Mickey’s commitment to the industry and the ways he supports that community. Mickey is also proof that sober people are really just the fucking coolest and funniest in the world. He has a specific brand of humor that I really enjoy and the way he infuses that into some painful experiences is masterful.
Tuesday was a banger, kicking off with the Focus on Health No/Low party in the French Quarter sponsored by Ritual. This party was unreal. The menu had both zero proof and low abv options, all meticulously curated and served in fun glassware with thoughtful garnishes and names. I personally always appreciate a great name on a menu for zero proof cocktails, it feels more adult and respectful than something like “nojito,” or “mockarita,” miss me with that bullshit. The “Disco Tango Foxtrot” was a crowd favorite, served in a plastic hand grenade with a tiki umbrella for good measure. The DTF featured Ritual tequila, Dhos Orange, and All the Bitters. The crew from The Pathfinder was on hand to provide shots straight to the dome for anyone looking to get down like that, I declined to partake but it was fun as hell to watch. The energy of this particular party felt so wild, like I was at my favorite dive bar in Nashville, cool kids galore, party vibes and well-dressed hipsters. I ran into Derek Brown, author and founder of Positive Damage, Inc and Camille Vidal aka Mindfully Cami on IG.
Wednesday was a bit of a breather so I took the opportunity to explore New Orleans a bit with my partner in crime for the week Joshua James, aka Josh the Nonalcoholic. We sort of reflected on everything we’d seen and captured so far and made a plan for the coming days. Even after travel mishaps, jam packed action for 48 hours straight, and not quite enough sleep, I was so excited for the last two days of the week.
Thursday we all met up at Dream House Lounge with founder David Wallace. David and I had a phone call the week prior to my arrival and I knew he was going to be special but I was absolutely blown away by his warmth and energy and the beautiful space he’s created. He made us delicious drinks and showed us around the lounge before we sat down to have a more in depth conversation. What he offers at DH is so much more than “conscious cocktails” as he calls them (which are divine btw), with David it’s all about creating the whole picture of wellness. Of course, alcohol free drinks is a huge piece of that picture but it’s also about spiritual and mental health as well as building a village of likeminded, heart-first individuals. I was so inspired by David’s story and listened on the edge of my seat as he recounted stories about his ancestors and the at times tumultuous journey he went on to birth this haven of healing.
I made my way over to the famous Napoleon House for the Shopify NA showcase hosted by Derek Brown and Elizabeth Gascoigne of Absence of Proof. This party was elegant and sophisticated, huge fresh floral arrangements adorned every bar and table, and the crowd was dressed to impress. It felt like I was at my rich friend’s backyard birthday party but instead of a birthday we were celebrating the beverage renaissance. There were sixteen non-alc brands being served and I had the pleasure of representing Curious Elixirs! I poured No. 9, the newest beauty in the Curious lineup, a fizzy rosè featuring South African Kanna and California Poppy in beautiful glass coupes with a thin lime wheel garnish. After the party I had a great conversation with Elizabeth about AOP and the Gen Z exodus from booze culture. The younger generations are really getting it right when it comes to alcohol and hearing the stats straight from a leader in that generation was super interesting.
Friday was the big party from Josh Harris, sober superstar and restauranteur, Pig and Punch. The Pig and Punch party did not disappoint and nailed it on every level from the food to the drinks to the entertainment and swag. I was served my NA cocktail in a custom yeti-like mug straight out of what looked like a keg. It. Was. Delicious. To eat I had a tostada that melted my face and a bbq pork slider that will haunt me like a long lost lover until we meet again. There was an incredible band on the big stage and you know your girl had to dance even though the dance floor was completely empty. I was too happy not to dance. There were even cold plunge pools which people were lining up for and and interesting health and wellness products everywhere. I’d be remiss not to mention the espresso gelato I had on my way out from a local vendor that I’m furious I can’t remember the name of, it was heavenly. I snagged a few minutes with Josh to talk about what’s happening in the industry and it was amazing to hear his perspective. We shared the sentiment that sober folks deserve sophisticated drink options and I thanked him for all the work he’s put in to champion that cause (and the delicious pork slider of course.)
I said goodbye to the team I’d grown so fond of over the week and all the amazing people I met at the events in New Orleans, sure I’d see them
again sometime soon, and got ready for my flight home on Saturday. Something shifted inside of me over the course of last week, something new was born. What I witnessed in real time was a community in action in a way I hadn’t experienced up until then. Everyone I met had a different sobriety journey, a different language they preferred, a different perspective on what it means to push this movement forward-exactly what’s required. I understand now on a deeper level just how important representation and inclusivity is in the conversation around sobriety. I’ve always been an advocate for a sobriety path of your choosing, non-alc drinks, and loud and proud conversations around the reasons why we drank and no longer do-but now I see another idea forming that I can’t wait to explore further. Successful revolution requires each person have a different skill set. Sitting at a big table with all of these wildly inspiring sober people over good food and good drinks felt a bit like a holy communion of kindred spirits, all hellbent on doing their part. How are we changing the world? How can I help? What are we drinking tonight?
The take-home from Tales last week…anything we want.
Oh, I hope they come to Paris next!
You really painted a picture of what it was like to attend the largest bartenders convention (Tales of the Cocktail, New Orleans). What happens there trickles down to what happens in bars and restaurants around the world. The Modern Sobriety Movement is here and it’s Fonze cool 😎 ; Thank you for helping define the look and feel of this historical time in history!